Khmer Rouge in Cambodia

Significant portions of the following historical overview were contributed by DC-Cam from Khamboly Dy’s “A History of Democratic Kampuchea (1975-1979)”.

01 – Overview

The Communist Party of Kampuchea (CPK), otherwise known as the Khmer Rouge, took control of Cambodia on April 17, 1975. The CPK created the state of Democratic Kampuchea in 1976 and ruled the country until January 1979. The party’s existence was kept secret until 1977, and no one outside the CPK knew who its leaders were (the leaders called themselves “Angkar Padevat”).

While the Khmer Rouge was in power, they set up policies that disregarded human life and produced repression and massacres on a massive scale. They turned the country into a huge detention center, which later became a graveyard for nearly two million people, including their own members and even some senior leaders.

02 – The Rise of the Khmer Rouge

The Cambodian communist movement emerged from the country’s struggle against French colonization 1940s, and was influenced by the Vietnamese. Fueled by the first Indochina War in the 1950s, and during the next 20 years, the movement took roots and began to grow.

In March 1970, Marshal Lon Nol, a Cambodian politician who had previously served as prime minister, and his pro-American associates staged a successful coup to depose Prince Sihanouk as head of state. At this time, the Khmer Rouge had gained members and was positioned to become a major player in the civil war due to its alliance with Sihanouk. Their army was led by Pol Pot, who was appointed CPK’s party secretary and leader in 1963. Pol Pot, born in Cambodia as Solath Sar, spent time in France and became a member of the French Communist Party. Upon returning to Cambodia in 1953, he joined a clandestine communist movement and began his rise up the ranks to become one of the world’s most infamous dictators.

Aided by the Vietnamese, the Khmer Rouge began to defeat Lon Nol’s forces on the battlefields. By the end of 1972, the Vietnamese withdrew from Cambodia and turned the major responsibilities for the war over to the CPK.

From January to August 1973, the Khmer Republic government, with assistance from the US, dropped about half a million tons of bombs on Cambodia, which may have killed as many as 300,000 people. Many who resented the bombings or had lost family members joined the Khmer Rouge’s revolution.

By early 1973, about 85 percent of Cambodian territory was in the hands of the Khmer Rouge, and the Lon Nol army was almost unable to go on the offensive. However, with US assistance, it was able to continue fighting the Khmer Rouge for two more years.

April 17, 1975 ended five years of foreign interventions, bombardment, and civil war in Cambodia. On this date, Phnom Penh, a major city in Cambodia, fell to the communist forces.

03 – Life in Cambodia under the Khmer Rouge Regime

A few days after they took power in 1975, the Khmer Rouge forced perhaps two million people in Phnom Penh and other cities into the countryside to undertake agricultural work. Thousands of people died during the evacuations.

The Khmer Rouge also began to implement their radical Maoist and Marxist-Leninist transformation program at this time. They wanted to transform Cambodia into a rural, classless society in which there were no rich people, no poor people, and no exploitation. To accomplish this, they abolished money, free markets, normal schooling, private property, foreign clothing styles, religious practices, and traditional Khmer culture. Public schools, pagodas, mosques, churches, universities, shops and government buildings were shut or turned into prisons, stables, reeducation camps and granaries. There was no public or private transportation, no private property, and no non-revolutionary entertainment. Leisure activities were severely restricted. People throughout the country, including the leaders of the CPK, had to wear black costumes, which were their traditional revolutionary clothes.

During this time, everyone was deprived of their basic rights. People were not allowed to go outside their cooperative. The regime would not allow anyone to gather and hold discussions. If three people gathered and talked, they could be accused of being enemies and arrested or executed.

Family relationships were also heavily criticized. People were forbidden to show even the slightest affection, humor or pity. The Khmer Rouge asked all Cambodians to believe, obey and respect only Angkar Padevat, which was to be everyone’s “mother and father.”

The Khmer Rouge claimed that only pure people were qualified to build the revolution. Soon after seizing power, they arrested and killed thousands of soldiers, military officers and civil servants from the Khmer Republic regime led by Marshal Lon Nol, whom they did not regard as “pure”. Over the next three years, they executed hundreds of thousands of intellectuals; city residents; minority people such as the Cham, Vietnamese and Chinese; and many of their own soldiers and party members, who were accused of being traitors. Many were held in prisons, where they were detained, interrogated, tortured and executed. The most important prison in Cambodia, known as S-21, held approximately 14,000 prisoners while in operation. Only about 12 survived.

Under the terms of the CPK’s 1976 “Four-Year Plan,” Cambodians were expected to produce three tons of rice per hectare throughout the country. This meant that people had to grow and harvest rice all 12 months of the year. In most regions, the Khmer Rouge forced people to work more than 12 hours a day without rest or adequate food.

04 – Fall of the Khmer Rouge

By the end of 1977, clashes broke out between Cambodia and Vietnam. Tens of thousands of people were sent to fight and thousands were killed.

In December 1978, Vietnamese troops fought their way into Cambodia. They captured Phnom Penh on January 7, 1979. The Khmer Rouge leaders then fled to the west and reestablished their forces in Thai territory, aided by China and Thailand. The United Nations voted to give the resistance movement against communists, which included the Khmer Rouge, a seat in its General Assembly. From 1979 to 1990, it recognized them as the only legitimate representative of Cambodia.

In 1982, the Khmer Rouge formed a coalition with Prince Sihanouk, who was exiled in China after the Cambodian Civil War, and the non-communist leader Son Sann to create the Triparty Coalition Government. In Phnom Penh, on the other hand, Vietnam helped to create a new government – the People’s Republic of Kampuchea – led by Heng Samrin.

The Khmer Rouge continued to exist until 1999 when all of its leaders had defected to the Royal Government of Cambodia, been arrested, or had died. But their legacy remains.

05 – Life in Cambodia Today

Democratic Kampuchea was one of the worst human tragedies of the 20th century. Nearly two million Cambodians died from diseases due to a lack of medicines and medical services, starvation, execution, or exhaustion from overwork. Tens of thousands were made widows and orphans, and those who lived through the regime were severely traumatized by their experiences. Several hundred thousand Cambodians fled their country and became refugees. Millions of mines were laid by the Khmer Rouge and government forces, which have led to thousands of deaths and disabilities since the 1980s. A large proportion of the Cambodian people have mental problems because their family members were lost and their spirits damaged. These factors are one of the major causes of the poverty that plagues Cambodia today.

Sihanoukville – Cambodia Province

Sihanoukville province is a small southern province of Cambodia. The capital sits on a peninsula with beaches and tropical islands around. Sihanoukville (also known as Kampong Som or Kampong Saom) was founded in 1964 to be the only deep-water port in whole Cambodia. It is gradually being redeveloped as a tourist attraction, but despite the promise of massive Malaysian investment – a casino is planned for Naga Island – tourist numbers are still fairly low. Also its nice with sand beaches and several paradise islands have made it popular as a tourist destination.

In honour to the king, who fought for the independency of Cambodia the provincial capital was called Sihanoukville. Located in the southwest corner of Cambodia, 232km from Phnom Penh, Sihanoukville can be reached via National Highway No 4. White-sand beaches that include Ohchheuteal, Sokha, Pram Pi Chan, and Deum Chrey beautify this coastal city. These beaches are known for their quiet, cosy atmosphere and the large stretches of white sand and clear waters and these make them popular spots for families on vacation. These seaside paradises with the refreshing coolness of the fresh water streams can be enjoyed all year round.

This famous see side resort is formed by wide and huge streets and quite new big concrete buildings, which lost any impression of the former architectonical colonial style. As the town is not a small place due to it’s wide spread urban areas, the best way to get around is to hire a motorbike. Beside the nice beaches and some very nice vantage points there isn’t that much to see in the town itself.

In recent years, Sihanoukville has become the focus of major investments from China. In 2018, a third of tourists to Cambodia were Chinese, and a quarter of them said they came to do business. Sihanoukville is today far from the postcard image that has made its reputation. It is a real open-air construction site supposed to become a high-end coastal destination.

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Siem Reap – The City of the Temples of Angkor

Siem Reap is considerably developed because the city of Cambodia is at the gates of the Angkor site. Although very crowded (a million tourists each year), it nevertheless retains in its center a very pleasant face. The architectural style mixes French and Chinese influences.

It is pleasant to walk there during the day, along the streets and alleys that the shops, restaurant and shops happily enliven. The south of the old French quarter hosts the old market. The northern part, more authentic and local, will allow you to dive into the excitement of the stalls and small street restaurants.

Visiting Siem Reap in the evening, the city is transformed, as if animated by a double personality. A festive and colorful atmosphere takes over the central streets. Food stalls on the sidewalk, lively night market, multiple restaurants and bars, not to mention “Pub Street” whose decibels and intoxicating drinks make a whole crowd of international backpackers wave in the middle of the street until late at night.

What to see in Siem Reap?

01 – Floating villages

Dedicated to the Hindu god Shiva, Ta Keo was built as the state temple of Jayavarman V, son of Rajendravarman, who had built the Pre Rup temple. Jayavarman V was 10 years old when he succeeded his father, in 968 AD. When he was aged 17, he began the construction of his own state temple, whose modern name is Ta Keo. The temple was never completed however. Legend has it that the temple was struck by lightning during its construction, and all work was abandoned at a stage where the main structure was complete but no external carvings had been added. Also unique is the fact that Ta Keo is made of green sandstone versus the deeper brown or grayish color of other temples at Angkor. The climb to the top of the temple is very steep, but the view is well worth it.

02 – The temple of Srah Srang – One of the must-see sites in Siem Reap

To visit Siem Reap is necessarily to visit the temples of Angkor, a true emblem of the city. This Buddhist temple complex is the essence of tourism in the region. Since 1992, the best known of them, the Angkok Wat, which has been listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site and is considered the eighth wonder of the world!

Symbol of Cambodia, it took place within the national flag. This temple, built in the 12th century, is relatively well preserved. From its summit, you have a breathtaking view of the whole Angkor site in Siem Reap.
This city was once the capital of the Khmer Empire which ruled Southeast Asia from the 9th century to the 15th century. The spectacle of these remains nestled in the jungle is simply magnificent, and will make you forget the other (many) travelers.

At the heart of the temples of Angkor, what we call temple (all construction is sacred in Angkor) is in fact a large basin whose contours are adorned with facings of cut stones. It offers an exceptional point of view on the whole site, especially at daybreak 🙂

03 – A boat trip on the Tonle Sap lake

The boat will take you to meet the inhabitants of these surprising floating villages where there are houses on stilts, workshops, floating markets and even schools! An exceptional lakeside stopover in the heart of eternal Cambodia.

To visit Siem Reap is to be seduced by the beauty of its nature. Tonle Sap Lake is the largest lake in Southeast Asia. It hosts a floating village on its banks, which in the rainy season offers an astonishing spectacle, since almost all of the buildings are found in the water and you have to travel by boat through the whole village. If the experience tempts you, do not hesitate to visit the village, accessible to tourists!

04 – Skun market

An activity that we all love is strolling through the local markets to see the daily life of the local population!
At the market, all kinds of food products rub shoulders on the stalls. You can find river eels, abundant fruit, mangosteen, rambutans and many products imported directly from Thailand.

Here, next to the usual fruits and vegetables, you can shop for raw, fried or grilled insects! It is not for nothing that it is called “the tarantula market”.

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The Temples of Angkor – An Architectural Jewel of Cambodia

Situated between the Tonle Sap lake and the Kulen Mountains in Cambodia, Angkor contains the magnificent remains of several capitals of the Khmer Empire. Angkor served as the seat of the Khmer Empire, which flourished from approximately the 9th to 15th centuries. The hundreds of temples surviving today are but the sacred skeleton of the vast political, religious and social center of the ancient empire. At its zenith the city boasted a population of one million people, the largest preindustrial city in the world.

After the fall of the Khmer empire the Angkor temples were abandoned and reclaimed by the jungle for centuries. Situated amid dense rainforest and rice paddies, many of the temples at Angkor have now been restored and welcome over two million tourists each year.

01  – Ta Keo

Dedicated to the Hindu god Shiva, Ta Keo was built as the state temple of Jayavarman V, son of Rajendravarman, who had built the Pre Rup temple. Jayavarman V was 10 years old when he succeeded his father, in 968 AD. When he was aged 17, he began the construction of his own state temple, whose modern name is Ta Keo. The temple was never completed however. Legend has it that the temple was struck by lightning during its construction, and all work was abandoned at a stage where the main structure was complete but no external carvings had been added. Also unique is the fact that Ta Keo is made of green sandstone versus the deeper brown or grayish color of other temples at Angkor. The climb to the top of the temple is very steep, but the view is well worth it.

02 – Banteay Kdei

Little is known about this mysterious temple. It is presumed that Banteay Kdei was a Buddhist monastery as hundreds of Buddha statues have been excavated from the site. The temple was probably built in the 12th century, around the same time as the Ta Prohm temple. Known as ‘the citadel of cells’, its design is quite similar to Ta Prohm and Preah Khan, but less complex and smaller in scale. After the collapse of the Khmer empire it remained neglected and covered with vegetation for centuries.

03 – Pre Rup

With its three central spires, Pre Rup looks a bit like a mini Angkor Wat. Pre Rup was built as the state temple of king Rajendravarman in 961 and was dedicated to Shiva. It was the second temple built after the capital was returned to Angkor from Koh Ker after a period of political upheaval. Pre Rup is made of gray sandstone, which is a less durable material than the pink sandstone of some of the other temples at Angkor. As such, time and weather haven’t served the temple well and many of the complex carvings and details have been worn away by rain and erosion. It’s a crumbling temple but still magnificent in size and structure.

04 – Preah Kahn

The temple of Preah Kahn is one of the largest complexes at Angkor. Like the nearby Ta Prohm temple, Preah Khan has been left largely unrestored, with numerous trees growing among the ruins. Preah Khan was built by king Jayavarman VII and probably served as his temporary residence while Angkor Thom was being built. The ultimate fusion temple, Preah Khan is both a Buddhist and Hindu temple. Four ceremonial walkways approach the gates of the temple. The eastern entrance is dedicated to Mahayana Buddhism with equal-sized doors. The other principal directions are dedicated to Shiva, Vishnu and Brahma with successively smaller doors, emphasizing the unequal nature of Hinduism.

05 – Phnom Bakheng

Dedicated to Shiva, Phnom Bakheng is a Hindu temple in the form of a temple mountain. It was constructed at the end of the 9th century, more than two centuries before Angkor Wat , during the reign of King Yasovarman. Phnom Bakheng was the architectural centerpiece of a new capital, Yasodharapura. The temple faces east and is built in a pyramid form of six tiers. Upon its completion it boasted 108 small towers around the temple at ground level and on several tiers. Only a few of the towers now remain. Located on top of a hill, the temple is a very popular tourist spot for the magnificent sunset views.

06 – Banteay Srei

Located far (about 32 km/20 miles) from the main group of temples, Banteay Srei is one of the smallest sites at Angkor. Due to its beautiful carvings however it is extremely popular with tourists and considered a jewel of Khmer art. Built of fine grained rose-pink sandstone, the temple walls are elaborately decorated with floral motifs and epic Ramayana scenes.

Construction of Banteay Srei began in AD 967 AD. It is the only major temple at Angkor not commissioned by a king but by a brahmin named Yajnavaraha. The temple was primarily dedicated to the Hindu god Śiva. Banteay Srei, the modern name of the temple, means “Citadel of the Women” as the elaborate carvings are supposedly to fine for the hand of a man. Its original name, Tribhuvanamaheśvara, means the “great lord of the threefold world”.

07 – Angkor Thom

The last great capital of the Khmer empire, Angkor Thom (literally “Great City”) took monumental to a whole new level. It was built in part as a reaction to the surprise sacking of Angkor by the Chams. King Jayavarman VII decided that his empire would never again be vulnerable at home. Beyond the eight meter (26 ft) high walls is a massive moat that would have stooped all but the most determined invaders. The city wall has a sanctuary tower at each corner and five entry gates; one per cardinal direction plus an additional eastern portal, the Victory Gate. The gates each feature a tower topped by four huge faces, similar to those at the Bayon temple. The most fascinating way to enter Angkor Thom is through the south gate. The causeway here is flanked by 54 gods and 54 demons depicting parts of the popular Hindu legend “The Churning of the Ocean of Milk”.

08 – Ta Prohm

Ta Prohm is undoubtedly the most atmospheric and photogenic ruin at Angkor, with trees growing out of the ruins. Here you can still experience an India Jones moment and feel like an early explorer. If Angkor Wat and other temples are a testimony to the genius of the ancient Khmers, Ta Prohm equally reminds us of the awesome power of the jungle.

Built from 1186, Ta Prohm was a Buddhist temple dedicated to the mother of Jayavarman VII. It is one of the few temples in Angkor where an inscription provides information about the temple’s inhabitants. The temple was home to more than 12,500 people, including 18 high priests, while an additional 80,000 khmers, living in the surrounding villages, were required to maintain the temple. The inscription also notes that the temple contained gold, pearls and silks. After the fall of the Khmer empire in the 15th century, the temple was abandoned and swallowed up by the jungle

09 – Bayon Temple

The Bayon temple features a sea of over 200 massive stone faces looking in all direction. The curious smiling faces, thought by many to be a portrait of king Jayavarman VII himself or a combination of him and Buddha, are an instantly recognizable image of Angkor. Built in the 12th century by King Jayavarman VII as part of a massive expansion of his capital Angkor Thom, the Bayon is built at the exact center of the royal city. The Bayon is the only state temple at Angkor built primarily as a Mahayana Buddhist shrine dedicated to the Buddha. Following Jayavarman’s death, it was modified by later Hindu and Theravada Buddhist kings in accordance with their own religious beliefs.

The Bayon temple rises through three levels to a height of around 43 meters (140 feet). The outer gallery on the first level depicts scenes from everyday life and historical events, while the inner gallery on the next higher level depicts mythical figures and stories. Some of the figures depicted are Siva, Vishnu, and Brahma. The third level is where you will encounter many of the famous faces (and tourists).

10 – Angkor Wat

Angkor Wat (meaning “City Temple”) is the most magnificent and largest of all Angkor temples. The structure occupies and enormous site of nearly 200 hectares (494 acres). A huge rectangular reservoir surrounds the temple which rises up through a series of three rectangular terraces to the central shrine and tower at a height of 213 meters (669 feet). This arrangement reflects the traditional Khmer idea of the temple mountain, in which the temple represent Mount Meru, the home of the gods in Hinduism.

Built under the reign of king Suryavarman II in the first half of the 12 century, Angkor Wat is the pinnacle of Khmer architecture. The famous bas-reliefs encircling the temple on the first level depict Hindu epics including the mythical “Churning of the Ocean of Milk”, a legend in which Hindu deities stir vast oceans in order to extract the nectar of immortal life. The reliefs, including thousands of female dancers, are carved into the wall of the third enclosure of the temple.

In the late 13th century, Angkor Vat gradually moved from a Hindu temple to a Theravada Buddhist one. Unlike other temples at Angkor which were abandoned after the fall of the Khmer empire in the 15th century, Angkor Wat remained a Buddhist shrine.

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Phnom Penh – The Capital of Cambodia

Phnom Penh is the vibrant bustling capital of Cambodia. Situated at the confluence of three rivers, the mighty Mekong, the Bassac and the great Tonle Sap, what was once considered the ‘Gem’ of Indochina. The capital city still maintains considerable charm with plenty to see. It exudes a sort of provincial charm and tranquillity with French colonial mansions and tree-lined boulevards amidst monumental Angkorian architecture. Phnom Penh is a veritable oasis compared to the modernity of other Asian capitals. A mixture of Asian exotica, the famous Cambodian hospitality awaits the visitors to the capital of the Kingdom of Cambodia.

Here in the capital, are many interesting touristy sites. Beside the Royal Palace, the Silver Pagoda, the National Museum, the Toul Sleng Genocide Museum, the Choeng Ek Killing Fields and Wat Phnom, there are several market places selling carvings, paintings, silk, silver, gems and even antiques. Indeed, an ideal destination for a leisurely day tour. The whole area including the outskirts of Phnom Penh is about 376 square kilometres big. There are currently 2,009,264 people living in Phnom Penh.

The city takes its name from the re-known Wat Phnom Daun Penh (nowadays: Wat Phnom or Hill Temple), which was built in 1373 to house five statues of Buddha on a man made hill 27 meters high. These five statues were floating down the Mekong in a Koki tree and an old wealthy widow named Daun Penh (Grandma Penh) saved them and set them up on this very hill for worshiping. Phnom Penh was also previously known as Krong Chaktomuk (Chaturmukha) meaning “City of Four Faces”. This name refers to the confluence where the Mekong, Bassac, and Tonle Sap rivers cross to form an “X” where the capital is situated.

Phnom Penh is also the gateway to an exotic land – the world heritage site, the largest religious complex in the world, the temples of Angkor in the west, the beaches of the southern coast and the ethnic minorities of the North-eastern provinces. There are also a wide variety of services including five star hotels and budget guest houses, fine international dining, sidewalk noodle shops, neighbourhood pubs international discos and more.

Phnom Penh, like other Asian-City tourist destinations, is in the midst of rapid change. Over the past few years the number of restaurants and hotels have grown considerably and in the last year there had been a huge increase in the number of visitors. Come and see a real original as it won’t be the same in a few years.

Geography

Phnom Penh is located in the southern heard of the country and fully surrounded by the Kandal Province. The municipality consists of the typical plain wet area for Cambodia, covering rice fields and other agricultural plantations. The province also features three of the biggest rivers of the country the Tonle Bassac, the Tonle Sap and the mighty Mekong.

All three rivers cross to form an “X” at their confluence, where the capital is situated. These rivers provide potential freshwater and other resources. The city, located at 11.55 N 104.91667? E (11?33′ North, 104?55′ East) covers an area of 375 square kilometres (145 sq mi) which some 11,401 hectares (28,172 acres) in the municipality and 26,106 hectares (64,509 acres) of roads. The agricultural land in the municipality amounts to 34.685 square kilometres (13 sq mi) with some 1.476 square kilometres (365 acres) under irrigation.

Population

The current population in this municipality is about 2,009,264 people or 14 % of the country?s total population (14,363,519 person in Cambodia, 2007, provincial government data), with 621,948 male and 658,833 female. The population density is therefore 5,343.8 people per square kilometre. The population is Original Khmer 60%, Chinese 15%, Vietnamese 20% and 5% other. The population growth in the city is about 3.9%.

Climate

The country has a tropical climate – warm and humid. In the monsoon season, abundant rain allows for the cultivation of a wide variety of crops. This year-round tropical climate makes Cambodia ideal for developing tourism. Travellers need not to fear natural disasters such as erupting volcanoes or earthquakes, and the country is not directly affected by tropical storms.

Climate: Cambodia can be visited throughout the year. However, those plans to travel extensively by road should be avoided the last two months of the rainy season when some countryside roads may be impassable. The average temperature is about 27 degrees Celsius; the minimum temperature is about 16 degrees. December and January are the coolest months, whereas the hottest is April.

General information about the provincial climate

• Cool season: November- March (22-28c)
• Hot season: March- May (28c -38c)
• Rainy season: May – October (24-32c, with humidity up to 90%.)

The city temperatures range from 15 to 38 C and experiences tropical monsoons. Monsoons blow from the Southwest inland, bringing moisture-laden winds from the Gulf of Thailand and Indian Ocean from May to October. The northeast monsoon ushers in the dry season, which lasts from November to March. The city experiences the heaviest precipitation from September to October with the driest period occurring from January to February.

10 Top Tourist Attractions in Phnom Penh

01 – Wat Ounalom

This complex of over forty buildings is considered the nation’s Buddhist headquarters. Founded in 1443, this lovely, ornate collection of Pagodas and relic-filled stupas is fun to explore. It is the home of the head of the Cambodian Buddhist brotherhood, as well as a number of other orange-clad monks. Higher accesses offer chances to see lesser-viewed artworks, and lovely views of the Mekong that few take the time to discover. Though damaged by the Khmer Rouge, much of the temple’s statuary has been restored and continues to be visited in holy pilgrimages. Of special note is the stupa containing an eyebrow hair of the Buddha himself, and an inscription in the ancient language of Pali.

02 – Independence Monument

This tower was created in 1958 to celebrate Cambodia’s freedom from French Colonial Rule five years earlier. It is modeled after the central tower of the country’s most famed ancient temple, Angkor Wat, and represents a lotus-shaped Stupa that also honors the war dead of Cambodia. The monument sits near a park that contains a number of other important statuary honoring war heroes and peace accords with neighboring nations like Vietnam. It is the center of many festivals held during national holidays, and is often adorned with flowers during celebrations, or enjoyed by the park goers during concerts, outdoor martial arts classes or other recreational activities.

03 – Russian Market

Though Phnom Penh’s most famed foreign occupation was that of the French, there is a notable Russian component to the city that came here during the cold war era of the early eighties. The Russian Market is a notable place to buy many discounted (though often not authentic) designer items at a tenth of US prices. Its handicrafts are equally impressive, and include jewelry, silk and other fabrics, woodcarvings, musical instruments and much more. It is a great place to learn to haggle, as the expected asking price is often much less than the first offer

04 – National Museum of Cambodia

The National Museum of Cambodia not only is the nation’s premier collection of the Cambodian cultural history, it also serves as the largest architectural and historical museum as well. Before visitors enter the building, they are greeted with spectacular, rich gardens and the vibrant terracotta pavilion which stretches into four wings full of treasure to discover. Specially featured is the collection of art from Cambodia’s largest ethnic group, the Khmer. It also contains prominent and important statuary pieces for both the Buddhist and Hindu faiths

05 – Choeung Ek Genocidal Center

This best-known of all the Khmer Rouge’s mass graveyards, or killing fields, has become a monument to honor the victims of the atrocity in Cambodia’s dark history. It has been transformed into a Buddhist Stupa, or spire-peaked memorial of relics, created to honor the senseless murder between 1975 and 1979 of the nine thousand people in this field, and the million people nationwide. This is not a sight for the faint of heart; inside the building is an acrylic glass case with over five thousand of the skulls discovered here

06 – Wat Phnom

This hilltop temple in the city is the namesake for the city itself. Legend says that the widow Penh found a tree on the riverbank with four sacred statues of Buddha inside, and created a shrine in that location to protect its holiness. The temple itself is notable more for its historic importance than physical structure, but the park is a pleasant green space and a popular gathering place for locals. For those hoping to capture a little bit of good luck, it may be worth praying for success in business or other ventures the way many Cambodians do here

07 – Royal Palace of Cambodia

With its classic Khmer roofs and lavish decoration, the Royal Palace dominates the skyline of Phnom Penh. Located near the riverfront, it bears a remarkable likeness to its counterpart in Bangkok. The palace has been the home for the royal family during peace times since the 1860’s, when the capital city was moved from Oudong. This complex of buildings has 4 main structures, the Silver Pagoda, the Khemarin Palace, the Throne Hall and the Inner Court. Though half of the compound is considered the king’s residence and is closed to the public, the Silver Pagoda and Throne Hall compounds are popular attractions in Phnom Penh and can be explored freely.

08 – Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum

Converted in 1975 by the Khmer Rouge Regime from what was once a high school, Tuol Sleng became Cambodia’s most horrifying prison. Of the more than 17,000 people incarcerated of Tuol Sleng in the four years it operated, there are only a few known survivors. After the Vietnamese army uncovered the prison in 1979 Tuol Sleng was turned in to a historical museum memorializing the actions of the Khmer Rouge regime. The museum is easily accessible and a must-see for everyone interested in Cambodia’s horrific past

09 – Sisowath Quay

This riverside strip has been an important commercial public region for centuries. Bordering the Mekong River and abutted by the Royal Palace, this area is full of street vendors and shops, restaurants and hotels. It is one of the best locations to watch the boat races during Phnom Penh’s (and much of Southeast Asia’s) famed water festival, which takes place in mid April to celebrate the Buddhist new year. Sisowath Quay has a very westernized, multinational vibe, as it is home to several colonial-style buildings as well as a number of Embassies. For those planning a boat trip to Siem Reap, the ferry terminals leave from here.

10 – Phsar Thmei (Central Market)

From beneath a shining central golden dome, four pearl-white wings full of busy vendors stretch into numerous corridors and a cloud of sounds, sights, and scents. This art deco relic of the French Colonial architectural era was once believed to be the largest market in Asia, and has continued to operate (except during war time) since it completed construction in 1937. No matter what they are looking for, shoppers are likely to find a bargain here. From burned CDs and DVDs to discount tees, from luscious batik and brocade textiles to gold and gemstones, there is something for every taste to find here.

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Laotian Gastronomy

Lao cuisine is very similar to its Thai and Vietnamese neighbour’s culinary offerings. Spicy soup, sticky rice and a range of meat-based side dishes make up a meal, shared by all at the table. Vientiane is serviced by several good French restaurants, a remnant of the country’s colonial era.

Baguettes and croissants are also widely available. Major cities, such as Luang Prabang, offer restaurants to suit almost any palate, although the selection dwindles quickly as you embark on roads less travelled.

01 – Kaipen (Fried Seaweed) with Jaew Bong – A popular snack

Kaipen is made of freshwater green algae, peppered with sesame seeds and sundried into paper-thin sheets. These raw Kaipen are stored away in rolls. For consumption, the Kaipen sheets are flash-fried in a pan and usually served with jaew bong (chilli paste).

Khao Jee Sandwich (Baguette Sandwich) Almost every street corner has a vendor selling this French-Lao fusion. Khao Jee (or baguette) is split in half and filled with lettuce, sliced tomatoes, carrot, onion and optional cheese, moo yor (pork lunchmeat), chopped ham and topped with pâté or chili sauce. Khao Jee sandwich is good with a cup of strong filtered coffee.

02 – Khao Poon (Rice Vermicelli Soup) – A Yummy Laos Food

Lao noodle soup, made with long-simmered chili-and-meat-based soup (e.g. fish, pork, chicken). This soup is ladled on the cooked rice vermicelli and a bed of chopped up vegetables such as shallots, spring onion, coriander, mint leaves and string beans. Add fish sauce to taste and enjoy.

03 – Lao Sausage – Also known as ‘sai oua’

Lao sausage makes a pleasant appetizer or snack. Chopped pork meat, seasoned with herbs such as lemongrass, kaffir lime leaves, shallots, cilantro, galangal and flavoured with fish sauce. Good with sticky rice and fresh vegetables.

04 – Larb ‘Zesty’ sums up this mouthwatering meat-based salad

A variety of minced meat can be used, then flavoured with mint leaves, chili, fish sauce and lime juice. Ground toasted rice (khao khua) is usually added, while the mixture is quickly stirred in a pot. Minced turkey larb is a must-try Lao specialty.

05 – Pho Pho (or Foe)

It’s a noodle soup originally from Vietnam but can be found everywhere in Laos. Featuring thin slices of beef, pork, or chicken, tripe, meatballs and sometimes innards (heart, liver, tongue, etc), with your choice of noodle (e.g. flat or thin rice noodle). Add a handful of greens and a pinch of chili, for the original Lao style.

06 – Or Lam (Lao Stew)

Original to Luang Prabang, this tasty stew comprises mainly vegetables. Beans, eggplant, lemongrass, basil, chilies, woodear mushrooms, cilantro, green onion and locally grown vine called ‘sa kaan’ go into the dish, with optional meat (classically prepared water buffalo meat).

07 – Sien Savanh (Lao Beef Jerky)

Sundried beef strips, good with Beer Lao or as a snack. Made from beef flank steak (sometimes water buffalo meat is used), marinated in a mixture of garlic, fish sauce, ginger, sesame seed, sugar, salt and black pepper. The strips are then left to dry in sunlight, then deep fried until lightly crispy and served with sticky rice or jaew maak len (tomato-based chili dip).

08 – Som Moo (Sour Pork Sausage)

This appetizer is made from chopped, fermented raw pork – sometimes includes rump and skin – and wrapped in green leaves. Fresh chilies are usually inserted into the meat, adding a spicy kick to each bite. You can eat it raw or cooked (e.g. grilled), depending on the menu. The raw version is good with raw cabbage leaves and string beans.

09 – Tam Mak Hoong (Papaya Salad)

This Lao creation is similar to Thai som tam, but it has fermented fish sauce and shrimp paste as the key ingredients, along with garlic, tomatoes, chili, palm sugar, lime juice, fish sauce and brined crabs. Although it can be extremely spicy, eating it with sticky rice will make it more enjoyable.

Have a nice trip (and meal) ! 🙂

Muang Ngoi – The authenticity of Laos

Muang Ngoi, also known as Muang Ngoi Neua, is located on the Nam Ou (Ou River), just an hour upriver from gateway town Nong Kiaow. While Nong Kiaow tries to please the masses with a mix of low to higher end accommodation, Muang Ngoi attracts backpackers with its bungalows and hammocks set along a stunning mountainous stretch of the Nam Ou. Mount Phaboom, a single jagged fang-like karst, looms over the village.

Muang Ngoi remains a modestly-sized cluster of buildings and it has seen nothing of the explosion in tourism like  Don Dhet or other backpacker river Shangri-Las in Laos. 24-hour electricity did arrive some time ago and most bungalows/rooms sport a private bathroom with electric heated shower and a Western toilet. But there’s still no ATM and WiFi is iffy, so go ahead and enjoy telling friends and family you’ll be incommunicado. The rhythm continues to be early to bed, early to rise courtesy of those darn roosters. Relaxation and appreciating the view is the chief concern and once you bore of swinging in the hammock, there’s hikes to rural villages, lovely pastoral scenes, caves like Tham Pha Noi and Tham Pha Kaew and two impressive viewpoints including one on the aforementioned Mount Phaboom.

While the villages are best appreciated with the knowledge of a guide, it is possible to walk or bike to a few villages on your own by taking the road leading out of Muang Ngoi. After two kilometres, you’ll pass river cave Tham Kang (a pleasant place for a cooling dip) and cross a stream to find Ban Na, Ban Houaisene and Ban Huei Boe. When exploring, do stick on the literal beaten path as the region was heavily bombed during the war and the land remains contaminated with unexploded ordinance. As was the case in Nong Kiaow, locals would shelter in caves during bombing campaigns. Guesthouses use old artillery shells as garden art and flower planters.

With an hour to spare, an easy cave to check out independently is Pha Noi cave. Find the path behind Wat Okad Savaram temple, close to the trailhead for Muang Ngoi’s view point. Stroll 10-minutes through the forest, pay 10,000 kip admission and climb up to a couple of entrances in the hillside—bring a torch. Continue climbing up the trail to the top for yet another viewpoint.

Travellers pressed for time or those who prefer staying in livelier Nong Kiaow can do  Muang Ngoi as part of a multi- day trek or or organised day trip from there. It is usually a quick stop on a tour that may include Ban Sopjam, a weaving village further upriver, hiking to Tad Mork waterfall or by request, a whole day can be devoted to exploring Muang Ngoi’s villages. It’s not advisable to do the day trip on your own using the public boats because there is only one guaranteed boat a day. At minimum, you’d need to hire a boat privately.

The boat office probably doesn’t want tourists to know this, but there is a dirt track that connects Nong Kiaow to villages along the Nam Ou: Ban Had Sao, Ban Sopvanh, Ban Sopkong, all the way to Muang Ngoi. As of 2018, work was underway in Nong Kiaow to expand it into a road which means ground transport may become an option in the future.

Discover our tours in Laos here

Have a nice trip!

Nong Khiaw – The New Muang Ngoi

Nong Khiaw (Nong Kiau or Nong Kiew) is a beautiful rustic little town on the bank of the Ou River in Laos. It is squeezed in between some of the most fantastic limestone mountains north of Vang Vieng.

Many travellers pass through on the way up river to the even more isolated Muang Ngoi, but Nong Khiaw has a plenty of charm, a decent range of accommodation, plus conveniences such as 24 hour electricity and a connection to the road network for those interested in exploring the surrounding area.

Atm are now in town since 2016. At March 2018, there is a bank in the town where you can exchange money.

Get arround

Nong Khiaw is simple in layout and small enough to walk around. It’s possible to rent a bike at the Riverside Bungalows and Delilah’s to explore the 2 roads and surrounding area.

A large concrete road bridge connects Nong Khiaw on the western side of the river with the village of Ban Sop Houn on the eastern side of the river, where many of the river-view bungalows are found.

What to do in Nong Khiaw?

01 – Pha Tok Caves

About 2km outside town on the far side of the river from the boat landing and bus station. This cave set high in a limestone cliff sheltered villagers and Pathet Lao fighters during the Second Indochina war. The caves are accessed via steep concrete steps, and inside a few signs identify points where command posts were stationed. Entrance fees are collected at the bottom where you can also borrow a torch. The trail to the cave passes through many rice paddies and a small section of jungle. If you ask the people at the “ticket desk”, you should be able to arrange a boat ride back to Nong Khiaw from a local. For 2 people in the very small canoe type longtail boats that can seat max 2 people plus driver the price is around 50,000 kip. 5,000 kip.

Be careful with “guides” who try to show you the second (there is 2 caves there) cave after you visit by yourself the first one. He will ask to you tips (50’000-80’000kip) for is help (that you don’t need for sure). To see the second cave by yourself take the little pass at your left when you are at the entry of the first one.

02 – Pha Kuang Cave

About 3 km East on the 1C, this cave requires a little more fitness than your usual caving adventure, it is definitely something else. The cave runs about 300m into the rock and some climbing through small holes is required but it is definitely worth the adventure and the cave is quite stunning once you get inside. The owner is very friendly and knows a lot about the area. Just drive about 2 km West of town on the 1c. The associated restaurant serves good food. 10k Kip Entry Fee.

03 – Nam Ou river in Nong Khiaw

With the Mekong, it is the only waterway for large vessels. In Nong Khiaw, it is quite wide and quiet, completely inserted in a harmonious natural setting which allows very pretty walks in Laos.

Discover our tours in Laos here.

Have a nice trip!

Xieng Khouang – The Plain of Jars

Xieng Khouang consists of six districts Muang Khoune, Muang Phonsavanh, Muang Nong Hai, Muang Kham, Muang Mork, and Muang Phou Koud.

Situated in the northeastern remote provinces of Laos, the area was part of the Ho Chi Minh Trail, where troops, supplies and artillery were smuggled out of northern Vietnam and through the mountains on the eastern edge of the country, and subsequently into southern Vietnam.

While the vast majority of people reading this will be aware of the Vietnam War fought between 1963 to 1974, fewer know that a large part of the war was fought in Laos, giving the country the dubious title of being “the most bombed country in the world”. During the space of eleven years, the equivalent of one bomb was dropped every eight minutes. In total, two million tonnes of ordinance was dropped on Laos, more than on Germany and Japan combined during the Second World War. As a result the vast majority of sights within the province are dedicated to paying respects to the great tragedy that was inflicted on the area and its people.

Most Popular Attractions in Xieng Khouang

01 – Mulberries Organic Silk Farm

Visitors can view all the silk making process right here in the house. There are guided tours in English. If you are lucky enough, you may catch a glimpse of Miss Kommaly, who will tell you how she started this environmental-friendly cooperative 20 years ago. Her tireless work to empower local women and ethnic minority groups by raising their incomes through weaving earned her the 2005 nomination for the Nobel Peace Prize. Mulberries gift shop features beautiful plain silk scarves in a variety of rich colours, patterned throws and cushion covers and fabrics by the metre. Some patterns and home furnishing fabrics can be ordered. Mulberries Silk Farm in Xieng Khouang Province can be reached by plane from Vientiane. Lao Airlines operates three flights a week from Vientiane to Xieng Khouang. There is also a bus service from Vientiane that takes about 10 hours. If you can’t travel to Xieng Khouang, there is a Mulberries shop in Vientiane selling the same products.

02 – The silk farm

Among other things, the province of Xieng Khouang has always been synonymous with fine Laotian silk, the tradition of which dates back for centuries. Mulberries Organic Silk Farm, in the Phonsavan District of Xieng Khouang Province, is an establishment that aims to promote silk production as a way to generate income to families in surrounding areas while preserving the vanishing art of Laotian weaving. This non-profit company, certified both by Fairtrade and Lao Organic Department, grows their own chemical-free mulberry trees. Mulberry leaves are the staple diet of silk worms, which are raised here for four months, after which their silk cocoon is collected and reeled. The dyeing process that follows makes use of indigenous plants (such as indigo, jackfruit, and tamarind), which produce deep and rich colours. Once the thread is spun, it is given to village women who take them home to weave in their spare time. The silk farm then buys back the finished products to sell in their gift shops here and in Vientiane. Prior to that, the women attend workshops and learn how to make and use natural dyes, and the complex art of incorporating traditional designs into their creations

03 – The Plain of Jars

The Plain of Jars is considered the most distinctive and enigmatic of all Laos attractions. The large area around Phonsavan, the main city of Xieng Khouang Province is dotted with stone jars but no one has a clear idea as to why they are there. The mysterious jars were carved from both sandstone and granite in various sizes from very small to about 3.5 metres high and are thought to be more than 2,000 years old. Legend has it that they were made to store rice wine while some believe they were for storing the dead. Until today the function of the jars is still disputed.

Of all the many jar sites, the three most popular ones to visit are known as Site 1, 2 and 3. The main reason is because they are safe from UXO (unexploded ordinance). Still, visitors are advised to walk only on the known routes as Laos is considered the most heavily bombed/mined country in the world. During the Vietnam War this area got hit hard and some of the bombs did not go off. Site 1 is where the biggest jar is located. While Site 2 and 3 offer picturesque views of farmlands and villages as they sit on top of small hills.

04 – Muang Khan Cemetery

Unique and worth a visit just for the unusual site of mixing together Thai Dam animist tombs, Catholic headstones and Laos (Buddhist) tombs, situated east of Phonosavan.

05 – Muang Khoun

Located 30 km southeast of Phonsavan. This town was once the Royal Capital and the centre of the Phuan Kingdom. Some might describe it as a shadow of its former self and they would be quite accurate in doing so. A few French colonial buildings still remain in the town centre alongside Watt Is Phum- home to a sitting Buddha. On the outskirts the ancient stupas tower over the city and the vistas surrounding the structures are well worth the hike. A few kilometers beyond the old capital, near the village of Ban Phai, lies a jar site; the jars are located just off an old dirt road and, unlike the jars at the three main sites, strangely enough they’re built from granite.

06 – Muang Sui

Used by the Americans as a landing site for planes during the Second Indochina War, much like neighboring Muang Khoun the town has endured a gradual rebuilding process since its obliteration during the war, and is now part of the Muang Phu Kut district. Once a quaint town housing antique Buddhist temples and provincial architecture, visitors can still bear witness to some of the temple remains, in particular War Ban Phong where monks still reside.

07 – Tham Pa

These two limestone caves hid hundreds of small Buddha figures from the Haw invasion a few centuries ago. Dimly lit with the help of the rigged electrical lights (switched on by the locals for a small donation) making the passageways that link one cave to another accessible. The caves persist deep into the hill side and are pretty amazing.

That Foun (Old Xieng Khuang- Muang Khoun) This Buddhist stupa is also known as That Chomsi. It measures about 30 metres and was built in 1576. The Lanna inspired structure stands tall over the town and can be entered by a cavity left by the Chinese Ho marauders, over a century ago after they looted the stupa in order to seize valuable Buddha images enshrined within. The stupa was erected to cover ashes of Lord Buddha that were brought from India, during a time when Buddhism was proliferating in Laos. There are few if any sleeping options within this area so it is advised to take a day trip from the more populated Phonosavan.

08 – War Memorials

South of Phonosavan are two major war memorials set 1 km apart on separate hill tops. Both are set in the style of traditional Laos stupas (each containing the bones of the dead) although one is representative of the Vietnamese and the other the Laos lives lost. Inscribed on the Lao monument is the slogan ‘The nation remembers your sacrifice’, erected in 1998 a nearby slab of granite has the names of all the soldiers lost inscribed on its surface. The Vietnamese war memorial has the inscription ‘Lao-Vietnamese solidarity and generosity forever’. Both memorials enjoy sprawling views of the countryside and are especially attractive at sunset.

Have a nice trip!